はじまりの一足
「懐靴 Kazuo」
2016.05.10 ~
伝統的なプレーントゥダービーですが
靴職人としての情熱を込めた
感慨深い一足です。
靴の師匠 花田和夫氏が作った手縫い靴は
お渡しした時点が終着点ではなく、
どんなに履き込んでも型崩れせず、
修繕しながら30年、40年と時を過ごし
お客様の足にも心にも寄り添う靴でした。
懐靴 Kazuoは靴の技術だけでなく、
職人としての責任やあるべき姿を学び、
自分なりの信念を形にした最初の靴。
Kaisu Shoes Kazuo
May 10, 2016 ~
The traditional plain toe derby.
I put my passion as a shoemaker into these shoes.
I am deeply moved by this pair of shoes.
The hand-sewn shoes made by the master shoemaker Kazuo Hanada
the point at which you receive them is not the end point,
No matter how much you wear them, they will never lose their shape,
They will last for 30 or 40 years while being repaired.
They are shoes that will remain close to the customer’s feet and heart.
Kazuo is not only a shoe craftsman, but also a craftsman who has a responsibility and a way of being,
and responsibility as a craftsman,
and his own beliefs.
サイドは4本のステッチを走らせ
羽根の基部にはハンドステッチを。
負荷の掛かる箇所は徹底的に強靭に
負荷の掛からない箇所は柔軟にと
理想的な筋肉にヒントを得ています。
Four stitches run down the sides and
Hand stitching at the base of the feathers.
The parts that bear the load are thoroughly strong
while the unloaded parts are flexible.
The unloaded parts are flexible.
踵回りは花田氏のデザインを踏襲。
チョッポといいます。(たぶん死語です。)
着脱によって磨耗し易い箇所なので修理時、
靴を傷めずに交換できるよう単独構造にしています。
パーツには飾るだけじゃなく一つ一つに意味があります。
The heel area follows Hanada’s design.
It is called “Choppo”. (Probably a dead word.)
It is a part that is easily worn out by putting on and taking off the shoes, so it is designed as a single structure so that it can be replaced without damaging the shoes,
It is designed to be a stand-alone structure so that it can be replaced without damaging the shoe when it is repaired.
The parts are not only for decoration, but each has its own meaning.
羽根の位置を少し後方にずらして
ラストのフォルムを強調しています。
時間の経過で変化する足の大小に
靴紐の締緩で対応できるのが
ダービーシューズの最大のメリット。
The position of the wings is shifted backward a little to
The form of the last is emphasized.
The laces can be tightened or loosened to accommodate the size of the foot, which changes with the passage of time.
The greatest advantage of derby shoes is that they can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the laces.
the biggest advantage of derby shoes is that they can be adapted to the size of the foot over time by tightening or loosening the laces.
デザインは普遍的でありますが、
少しのアンバランスで違う表情に。
奇をてらうのではなく
規則の中で最大限、遊ぶ。
学んだ事に楽しさをインサート。
伝統を守る職人が多い世界において
僕達の役目はここにあると思います。
履く、愛でる、修繕する。
そしてまた履く。
花田氏からの学び。
初心を忘れずに日々精進。
The design is universal,
but a slight imbalance gives it a different look.
Rather than trying to be eccentric
Play within the rules as much as possible.
Insert fun into what you have learned.
In a world where there are many craftsmen who follow tradition
I think our role is here.
Wear them, love them, repair them.
And wear them again.
Learning from Mr. Hanada.
We will devote ourselves to the craft every day, never forgetting our original intention.
竜崇縫靴店